Day Eighteen.

Sainte Flavie to Lac Au Saumon.

I am camped (legally) in a park at Lac Au Saumon, just a few miles southeast of Amqui. There is what sounds like a dilly of a storm coming. Thunder, lightning, the works– moving in from the west.

Outside Amqui

Outside Amqui

I woke at the backyard of the Gîte in Sainte Flavie pretty late. Almost 8 before I got out of the tent. I guess that means my body is finally getting used to sleeping in a tent. Also that I was plumb wore out.

Heading south to Mont-Joli I got coffee at a Tim Hortons.

Holy shit. Some lightning just struck right behind me. Scared the pants off me. The weather up here is something else.

Ominous clouds

Ominous clouds

Anyway, after coffee I started south through the Matapedia valley. It was rough going at first. A lot of long, slow climbing and today has been one of the hottest days of my trip. I was pouring sweat for the first two hours. Finally, as I got to Sayabec, the terrain flattened a bit and the going was easier .but up til then I was having a hard time, honest.

In Sayabec there was only one bathroom and I had to go, but there was some kind of ride going on because I had to wait for three other cyclists first.

Finally reached Amqui around 2, I think, and ran into a guy with touring gear, Jean-Michel, and his girlfriend, Maude (pronounced ‘Mo’). They were doing three days around Lake Matapeia. He highly recommended Saguenay-Lac St. Jean. But no time on this trip, sadly.

At information touristiques they informed me that there was camping in Lac Au Saumon, that the may of Amqui really loves covered bridges, and that the most popular things to do in Amqui are salmon fishing and ATV.

The covered bridge I visited was pretty nice.

Covered Bridge in Amqui

Covered Bridge in Amqui

I stopped at Dixie Lee, a chain that advertises poulet pizza, and fruits e mer, and they had something on the menu called ‘croquettes.’ I understood this from the hostess’ description to be fried chicken, but alas, they were nuggets. Which I guess is a form of fried chicken.

Not very good nuggets, either. Not basing this on the Dixie Lee solely, but on my experience as a whole — if it ain’t breakfast, in Québec, it probably ain’t too good. I hope that the coming days prove me wrong.

The Eponymous Lac of Lac Au Saumon

The Eponymous Lac of Lac Au Saumon

After a couple hours in Amqui, I picked up supplies (read food) at Metro Plus and rode the thirty minutes to Lac Au Saumon. The only camping I could find were handpainted signs in a public park. The office was closed and locked and looked like it had been for awhile. A couple RVs are parked in the RV section, so I’m assuming it’s cool. I’ll let you know in the morning.

 

 

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